Fire-dancing deep in the forest

It is the last day of May and we are up early for a special event in Strandja Nature Park. Today the people of Strandja celebrate the day of the Saints Konstantin and Elena. This special event is famous in Bulgaria and beyond, because it involves dancing on hot coals by the Nestinari (the fire dancers). The tradition is ancient, and its origins are pagan, dating back to Thracian times.

Thracian kings, who were also high priests, had the right to commune with the gods to ask for favours and receive answers to important questions. This tradition has been taken up in Christian Orthodox faith, and now only the Nestinari who are possessed by the spirit of one of the saints repeat the ritual of dancing on the hot coals. Nowadays, there are only a few people who can still do this. Nestinar music involves special trance-inducing drum rhythms and is an important part of the ceremony.

Bulgarians from 5 villages in the Strandja Mountains dance deep in the woods

A sacred place in the Strandja Mountains

There are now two versions of this day: an authentic one and a more commercial version. The authentic one is celebrated in a sacred place in the Strandja Mountains and takes place on the last day in May. People from the five traditional fire-dancing villages in Strandja take their Icon of St Konstantin and Elena in a procession from village to village. They end up deep in the forest in the holy place of Golyamata Ayazma, the great holy spring. To the Strandja people, this is the most holy place in all of Strandja. Ancient paths, from each of the five villages lead to this place, and they can still be walked today.

Once there a representative from each village washes each icon with water from the spring. All villagers wash their face with the water, which is believed to be healing on this special day. Afterwards, the icons are placed on special wooden stands, and candles and a fire are lit. The people from each of the villages share food at their own village table, and music and folk dancing follow. At some point, the hot coals of the fire are spread out and one of the Nestinari performs the traditional dance with the icon from his village on the hot coals, while others are dancing around him.

A magical experience

For us it was a magical experience, not only because we were invited to take part in this ancient and authentic ritual, but also because of the fantastic setting (deep in the forest), the generous and warm atmosphere, the enchanting sight of the fire-dancing, and the traditional ‘Horo’ dances that Bulgarians take part in at every possible opportunity.

Sources :

• http://www.dancerbg.com/, here you can also hear some of the Nestinar music and watch a video.
• Strandja Nature Park Tourist guide (2008, Directorate of Strandja Nature Park)